5 Best 'Daily Use' Watches for Under £260/$400

5 Best 'Daily Use' Watches for Under £260/$400

Over the past few weeks, due to the time of year, I've had my head down and have been working hard. As a result I've found myself returning to the same watch repeatedly, day after day, due to its proven track record. For me, a daily watch is a timepiece, that whilst aesthetically attractive, I can forget about whilst on my wrist, not worry about when if wet or knocked, and finally a watch that sits quietly on wrist without demanding unnecessary attention.

1) Luminox Navy Seal 3001: £260/$375

The Luminox Navy Seal 3001 is a personal favorite of mine, and the watch I often default to, for day to day use. The subtle, yet distinctive design makes it a great timepiece to wear with a suit or t-shirt, as well as being able to shrug off absolutely anything thrown at it, from rain to rocks. The quality Swiss quartz movement found in the Navy Seal ensures reliable time keeping throughout the day, and eliminates the need for the watch to be wound manually during the morning rush. However, my favourite feature of the watch is the inclusion of tritium gas tubes within the hour, minute and second hands, each hour marking also includes a marking, making it a perfect for those working in low light environments,and as a perfect substitute for a clock during the night. For more of an insight on the 3001, read my previous, more in depth review by clicking, here.

2) Seiko SKX007J1: £175/$275

The Seiko SKX007J1 is a throw back to the old 80's diver watch style designs, and one of Seiko's best selling watches of the past 10 years. It uses Seiko's tried and trusted 21 jewel cal.7S26 movement, all made in Japan. It is also the only watch featured in this list that provides both day and date windows on the face of the watch. It's design is simple, and devoid of any clutter, allowing for the time to be read easily at a glance. The lumibrite on these Seiko models is impressively strong, and a testament to the overall build quality of the watch. Efficiency and robustness make the Seiko SKX007J1 a great day to day wearer.

3) G-Shock GW-4000D-1AER: £200/$310

When it comes to tough watches, G-Shock are amongst the most reliable in the world and the reason at least one had to be on this list. This particular model features a plethora of technology for every eventuality, and can comfortably sit on your wrist during the morning run, as well as in the office. The GW-4000D-1AER contains a radio antenna, keeping it accurate to the second - vital in a job where every second counts. For those traveling between time zones, either domestically or internationally can also use the radio signals to easily adjust to the new time zone thanks to G-Shocks 'world time' function. It also boasts a tough solar movement and chronograph, with alarm function. The black steel strap really finishes off the professional but tough look.

4) Swatch SISTEM51: £108/$150

The SISTEM51 is a relatively new watch by Swatch, released to rethink the way in which an automatic movement could be created. As the name suggests the movement only uses only 51 parts over 5 modules by using innovative new technology. The 90 hour power means it will continue to work on Monday morning even if left off of the wrist over the weekend - an impressive feature on a watch at this price point. True to Swatch's form, the watch comes in 4 different colours and patterns: black, blue, red, and white.

5) Citizen Eco-Drive CA0467-46E: £249/$390

The second Japanese movement in the list is found within the Eco-Drive - the best selling watch within the Citizen range. The watch contains solar cells that power a lithium ion rechargeable battery when exposed to light, and it is claimed that the movement can run for an estimated 180 days before requiring a charge from the panels. It's hard to think of a more convenient watch for someone who wants a watch with zero hassle in terms of winding/servicing, but still wants to maintain a classic looking design. 320 different models exist in the Citizen range, resulting in a style suited for everyone. The particular model I've chosen includes a 1/5 second chronograph, measuring up to 60 minutes, as well as a tachymeter.

3 Unusual Interesting Watches

3 Unusual Interesting Watches

Now and then I come across a watch that makes me stop and pause, not necessarily because of the aesthetics of the watch but simply because of the sheer brilliance of its design. Here is a list containing 3 of my favourite unusually interesting watches that I’ve come across.

Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planétarium

The first watch in the list is one of my favourite watches around at the moment. That reason being because the Midnight Planétarium provides the wearer with a view of an entire solar system on their wrist. Apart from being a stunningly beautiful watch it’s also an astonishing technical achievement, containing over 396 total components that visually follow the orbit of Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn around the Sun. Each planet is represented by a semi-precious gemstone (aventurine, serpentine, chloromelanite, turqoise, red jasper, blue agate and sugilte) sized accordingly that then rotates around a rose gold sun.  The series of planets are constantly arranged accurately to how they will look in space at that point in time, although this is all done through clever gear ratios the final product never fails to amaze me. 

Here is a graph showing the time for a single orbit of each planet:

The Midnight Planétarium follows all of the Planet's listed in real time. The fact that it takes 29 years of wearing the Planétarium to see a single revolution of Saturn fascinates me and that is the magic behind this watch. It is truly a watch that will keep you fascinated for a lifetime.

Seiko Think the Earth WN-1

 

This watch is interesting in so many different ways. First of all and most obviously, it’s a model of the planet Earth at a scale of 1:580 millionth the size of the real globe. This miniature model continuously spins at the rate of the Earth through the entire day; I have no idea how this is done but that mystery is what I like the most about the WN-1. The time is indicated by an orange ball rotating clockwise that indicates the hours and a small needle rotating anti-clockwise for the minutes. As well as being a used as a watch the WN-1 can also be used as a desk clock when combined with any one of the cards provided by Seiko to contain the watch. There isn't much in-depth information online about the WN-1 so it's difficult for me to write a lot about this watch, but what I do know is that it's a fascinating piece of engineering. If you are lucky enough to own or find the WN-1 for sale it might just be worth buying or holding as it could be a valuable collectors piece in years to come.

Cabestan Winch Tourbillon Vertical

 

The Cabestan Winch Tourbillon Vertical is apparently designed from an image of capstan – a large mechanical device drum operated by a lever causing rope or chains to wrap around the drum. First of all this watch looks nothing like I’ve ever seen before, it’s made up of drums and pullies and looks like a strangely appealing, angular homage to some medieval device. The Cabestan Calibre CAB EC 101 movement made by Eric Coudray that powers this contraption is nothing short of breath-taking; all 809 components are assembled and regulated by hand.

The hours, minutes and seconds are displayed on cylindrical drums and sit above the visible fusee vertical tourbillon and allow the chains driving the movement under constant force to be seen clearly. Would I want to own this watch? Probably not. But it’s undoubtedly one of the most technically interesting watches I’ve come across. The case can be found in four different finishes, from brushed titanium, gold and platinum through to the very subtle gold encrusted with diamonds. The Cabestan Winch Tourbillon Vertical, as I’m sure you’ve guessed isn’t cheap retails at a minimum of $275,000 and with only 135 reportedly ever made, it further adds to the cool factor that undeniably surrounds this fine example of imagination and technically brilliance combined.

Inside the Movement 1: Quartz

Inside the Movement 1: Quartz

How does it work?

Quartz movements use a no or very few moving parts; a quartz crystal vibrates within the watch itself due to the piezoelectric effect - this effect uses the electrical charge accumulated by the crystal due to applied mechanical stress. The quartz crystals job is to act as an oscillator and resonates at a high stable frequency, perfect for accurately keeping time.

The movement was created to stop the need to wind the mainspring of a mechanical watch on a regular basis.

 

History

 

Original BETA 1 prototype

The creation of the first quartz wristwatch was initially investigated by Epson (a smaller, Seiko owned company) in 1959. By the 1964 Olympics in Tokyo, a fully working portable prototype had been developed and was used to keep time over the course of the event. 1965 saw the beginning of a new era of developments at the CEH research laboratory in Neuchâtel, Switzerland toward the creation of the quartz wristwatch. A new 8192 Hz quartz oscillator was under development (much smaller than the previously seen version), a thermo-compensation module and an inhouse-made, dedicated assimilated circuit. By 1967 the BETA 1 prototype had been created and broke timekeeping records at the International Chronometric Competition hosted at the Observatory of Neuchâtel. As a result of this, in 1969, the first ever quartz wristwatch to be mass produced (Seiko 35 SQ Astron) entered production and thus the quartz watch was born.

 

Although this was the first quartz movement, it wasn’t the first time the addition of a battery was attempted by a watch manufacturer. The Hamilton Watch Company originally created a watch in 1957 called the Electric 500, a watch that replaced the mainspring of the movement with a battery, eliminating the need for the watch to be wound. Many regard this as the precursor to the quartz watch.

 

Kinetic

Seiko SKA369P1

Quartz watches have been produced that require the movement of the wrist to rotate a weight connected to a generator within the watch that supplies a charge to the rechargeable battery. The basic concept is not too dissimilar to that of an automatic or spring-winding movement, but instead of mechanical spring tension the watch is powered by an electrical current. These watches were called kinetic powered quartz watches. 

Solar

 

Omega Speedmaster Solar Impulse BH-SIA

Solar powered watches such as the Citizen Eco-Drive use photovoltaic/solar cells on the dial of the watch and are powered by converting light into electricity; the watch then uses electricity from the rechargeable battery or capacitor. As a result of the inclusion of solar cells many of the early watches produced during the 1970’s had to alter their designs to accommodate the large cells, however, the huge advancements in technology have enabled manufacturers to incorporate these features whilst maintaining unchanged, traditional designs. Due to the fact the movement is powered by light the battery is never needed to be replaced, the cells only need to exposed to strong light for small periods of time to provide a substantial charge lasting for days or weeks. 

Radio time signal watches

 

G-Shock GWA1000FC-5A

Modern watches with the inclusion of a radio receiver will automatically synchronise with the nearest atomic clock. The movement of the watch remains unaltered; it is only the inclusion of the radio receiver which differs. Once synchronised this makes the watch accurately to the time, date, leap year status of the current year. Some radio time signal watches are able to synchronise to time signals via GPS as well as linking to atomic clocks.

Notable watches

 

Many electric/quartz watches have come out since its invention, with few manufacturers staying away from it; here is a short list of some of my favourite quartz watches produced.

Rolex Oysterquartz Series

Rolex Oysterdate 17000 stainless steel

Introduced in the 1970’s the Oysterquartz was Rolex’s very first in-house quartz movement, (the 5035 and 5055) and the Datejust (5035) and Day-Date (5055). The 11 jewel movement was paired with a 32khz oscillator, new age CMOS circuitry and analog thermo compensation.  Some purists will argue that these weren’t the most accurate quartz watches around at the time; however, it is said that the Oysterquartz was finished to higher standard than the mechanical movements coming out of the factory at the time.

Citizen Eco-Drive Moon Phase AP1011-58A

As well as being a quartz watch the Eco-Drive uses solar cells, capable of being powered by either natural or artificial light. The original Eco-Drive used a caliber 7878 movement - the first light powered movement with the solar cells mounted under the dial by utilising amorphous silicon solar cells. The inclusion of titanium lithium-ion batteries in the 1990’s enable the Eco-Drive’s 7878 movement to run for 180 days without requiring any charge from the sun. Some of the watches in Citizen’s Eco-Drive series offered a hibernation setting in which the hands would stop rotating to save power whilst the quartz movement continued to track the correct time internally. Citizen state that over 80% of their current watch sales include the Eco-Drive movement and that over 320 different models are available.To view the Citizen range, click here.

Tag Heuer 1000 Professional

Over the years the 1000 Professional has built up quite a following due to its distinctive looks, high build quality and rugged resilience against most things thrown its way. This model was made between around 1980 and 1992 and was aimed at being a lower cost diver’s watch with a quartz movement as an option. Before earning its title as a 1000 Professional, Tag Heuer only called the watch by its reference number – ref.844. It contained a French Felsa movement (quartz and automatic options) and were built in France until production was moved back to Switzerland where the movement was swapped in favour of an swiss ETA. The 1000 Professional had a waterproof rating up to 200m, more than enough for the average user who likes a dip in the pool or sea; however, its bigger brother the 1000 Super Professional was able to withstand 1000m. To me it is instantly recognisable, but it is the interesting history behind the watch that makes it a classic to me. More information about the 1000 Professional by clicking here.

Quartz movements may be cheaper to produce but it's clear to me that it doesn't stop a watch from becoming a sort after timepiece, oozing with style and made to be used for generations.

Five Best Vintage Watches for under or around £600/$1000

Five Best Vintage Watches for under or around £600/$1000

If you’re in the market for a great looking vintage watch that doesn’t cost the earth, here are five stand-out watches that you should definitely take a look at.

 

1. Omega Seamaster De Ville

Price: £500/$850 upwards

 

This beautifully understated watch born in 1960 shows what can be achieved through simplicity. Built with a water resistant monocoque case, the watch remains thin and elegant and with off white dial contrasted with a black strap it makes it a perfect gentleman’s dress watch. Removed of any numbering, the dial shows off the simplicity of the De Ville, unconcerned about frivolities. What I love about the De Ville, is that it looks great and undeniably cool, all without looking as if it’s trying – as testament to this, it was worn by Sean Connery in the James Bond movie, “From Russia with Love”. One point of consideration when buying (manually wound at this price point) is to beware of cheaper priced watches often around the £300/$500 mark.

 2. Tissot Seastar Navigator Chronograph Valjoux 7734

Price: £600/$1000 upwards

 

Compared to previous watches mentioned I think this 1970's Chronograph is somewhat of an overlooked classic. The grey case and dial with blue and red features, for me are the highlight of this watch, combined with a brown leather strap creates the perfect period look or by adding a NATO strap creates a casual sports look. Both the dial and hands contain tritium, a continuously glowing gas and even after 40 years the examples I’ve seen still continue to glow brightly. 

3. Seiko ‘Pepsi’ chronograph: Model 6139-6002

Price: £250/$400 upwards

There is something about vintage Seiko chronographs that I really admire and the ‘Pepsi’ chronograph produced between 1969 until around 1979 is possibly my favourite of all. The 6139 was also Seiko’s first automatic chronograph movement, which for me adds a little extra uniqueness to this particular model.  It has a single register chronograph with a 30 minute counter, coloured the same vibrant gold as the dial, as well as this, it has a quickset date-day display. Distinctive and bold, this watch is instantly recognisable and a timeless classic. 

4. Vulcain Triple Date Moon Phase

Price: £650/$1090 upwards

Probably the hardest of all the watches I have mentioned in this list to find, the Triple Date Moon Phase is a seriously cool vintage watch. As a result of being produced in the 1940’s, if you can get your hands on this watch you will be holding a piece of horological history. The case and dial are both a beautiful gold colour that perfectly complements the rose gold numbers and dart indexes, paired with a black leather strap and the Vulcain will really turn heads. However, the subsidiary moon phase dial is what makes this watch; it creates a balance between the dial and day-month indicators that is the epitome of refined elegance, the second hand is also replaced by a half-moon date pointer.

5. Longine Flagship

Price: £600/$1000

Last on my list is another simply styled dress watch, similar to the Omega aesthetically in many ways. Thin and sporting the silver case against a black strap makes this watch a really subtly classic watch, everything a vintage dress watch brings to mind. Roman numeral indexes surround the dial with a tasteful amount of contrast, without any further indications or minute markings. The Flagship is definitely a vintage watch to be celebrated and shown off in a more formal setting when less is more. 

Inside Look: Hong Kong's Counterfeit Watch Trade

Inside Look: Hong Kong’s Counterfeit Watch Trade

 I’ve recently found myself working in China for 2 months; just a stones throw away from Hong Kong, so, as anyone would, I hopped over to the famous metropolis to spend a few days looking around and maybe at a watch or two.   

 

Counterfeit goods have been always been around, imitations, copies, call it what you like - they’re fakes. But one place has always been the place to go for knock off watches and that’s Hong Kong.  I arrived at night by ferry and immediately felt in awe of huge multi-coloured buildings, as well as the plethora of watch shops, largely dominated by Rolex, with the odd Omega and Patek Philippe thrown in for good measure. Hong Kong is a watch enthusiast’s playground.  

I’m not sure whether this is a common occurrence, but as soon as the words Hong Kong left my lips the talk of counterfeit watches almost always followed with whoever I spoke with.  I can see what the attraction is, however, that doesn’t mean I understand it; of course it would be nice to walk around with a Patek on my wrist that to the average person looked legitimate. But I wouldn’t just feel like a cheat, I would be a cheat. Perhaps it’s my personal appreciation that makes me admire more than just the aesthetics of the watch but also the history, craftsmanship, movement, etc.

To my surprise it wasn’t long before I was approached on the street, only a few doors down from the legitimate shops being offered counterfeits, not great counterfeits from the looks of them, but counterfeits none the less. I thought (perhaps naively), that this sort of thing was reserved for the night markets and densely filled backstreet stalls, away from authoritative eyes - obviously I was wrong.  At the time, I thought nothing of it, but upon reflection back it seems odd that the sellers are given such freedom on the streets to boldly approach people, in search of a sale (99% of whom aren’t even looking for a watch).  It didn’t seem like the secret I expected it to be, a secret that everyone was aware of but knew not to talk about, instead, it was made blatantly clear in broad daylight. 

According to swissinfo.ch an estimated 5-10% of all world trade is made up of counterfeit goods, in addition, during 2010, 88% of all counterfeit goods seized within the EU originally came from either China or Hong Kong,  swissinfo.ch go on to say: 

For the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development, the volume of exchanges of counterfeit consumer products is more than the GDP of 150 countries, with a total world value of $250 billion in 2007.

As well as this, data published by the EU claim that watches are the third most commonly counterfeited products, making up a total of 11%. It's hardly surprising when an estimated 15-30% of all internet watch related searches are of people looking for replicas. However, the Swiss Watch Industry Federation (FHS) claim that in 2013, one million fake watches were also seized and destroyed.

I’ve heard the stories first-hand of people being approached in the street, shown a catalogue of watches varying in price and quality before being taken through back alleys to buildings used solely as a kind of showroom for the watches. Possibly the most extreme story I’ve heard of this was about a couple of prospective buyers who were taken to the top floor of an apartment block, only to find another floor had been illegally built on top of the building just to accommodate the counterfeit watches.

What is possibly the most worrying fact is the technical sophistication some of these watches show, apart from a few microscopic details many of the counterfeit watches being produced are hard to distinguish initially, it’s only until you delve into the heart of the watch some of the differences become apparent. Gone are the days of merely spotting poorly aligned dials or inexpensive materials. Some reports suggest that watches are now bought by high profile buyers within weeks of their release, taken to Hong Kong to be laser scanned through CNC machines to produce and exact copy. 

 

Take the Hublot Big Bang, for example - a precision made, incredibly complex tourbillon watch. Over the past year and a half to 2 years complicated watches such as this have begun to be produced in Hong Kong, similar weight, aesthetics and this particular model even comes with a vanilla scented strap true to the authentic. 

It seems the counterfeit market has started targeting the ultra high end watch market and, as a result, has started causing whispers within the Swiss watch communities that this is the result of increased prices as well as the limited supply. It is also thought that due to the reduced international sales network, it has made it a necessity for jewellery shops to stock second hand watches.  During a talk with swissinfo.ch, head of the anti-counterfeiting unit of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, Chris Arnoux, was quoted in saying:

This parallel market, which is perfectly legal in the EU and the USA, has been a real magnet for the counterfeiters. 

It is claimed that in China and Hong Kong a team of 50 inspectors has been created in an attempt reduce the increased threat, though I somehow doubt the effectiveness of this team after having fake Rolex after fake Rolex dangled before my eyes on every street corner.

Regardless of this counterfeit industry, to me, a watch is much more than just an aesthetic accessory, more than a physical creation - a real watch has soul and character making it a lifelong companion, something these lifeless copies will never be.