3 Unusual Interesting Watches

3 Unusual Interesting Watches

Now and then I come across a watch that makes me stop and pause, not necessarily because of the aesthetics of the watch but simply because of the sheer brilliance of its design. Here is a list containing 3 of my favourite unusually interesting watches that I’ve come across.

Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planétarium

The first watch in the list is one of my favourite watches around at the moment. That reason being because the Midnight Planétarium provides the wearer with a view of an entire solar system on their wrist. Apart from being a stunningly beautiful watch it’s also an astonishing technical achievement, containing over 396 total components that visually follow the orbit of Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn around the Sun. Each planet is represented by a semi-precious gemstone (aventurine, serpentine, chloromelanite, turqoise, red jasper, blue agate and sugilte) sized accordingly that then rotates around a rose gold sun.  The series of planets are constantly arranged accurately to how they will look in space at that point in time, although this is all done through clever gear ratios the final product never fails to amaze me. 

Here is a graph showing the time for a single orbit of each planet:

The Midnight Planétarium follows all of the Planet's listed in real time. The fact that it takes 29 years of wearing the Planétarium to see a single revolution of Saturn fascinates me and that is the magic behind this watch. It is truly a watch that will keep you fascinated for a lifetime.

Seiko Think the Earth WN-1

 

This watch is interesting in so many different ways. First of all and most obviously, it’s a model of the planet Earth at a scale of 1:580 millionth the size of the real globe. This miniature model continuously spins at the rate of the Earth through the entire day; I have no idea how this is done but that mystery is what I like the most about the WN-1. The time is indicated by an orange ball rotating clockwise that indicates the hours and a small needle rotating anti-clockwise for the minutes. As well as being a used as a watch the WN-1 can also be used as a desk clock when combined with any one of the cards provided by Seiko to contain the watch. There isn't much in-depth information online about the WN-1 so it's difficult for me to write a lot about this watch, but what I do know is that it's a fascinating piece of engineering. If you are lucky enough to own or find the WN-1 for sale it might just be worth buying or holding as it could be a valuable collectors piece in years to come.

Cabestan Winch Tourbillon Vertical

 

The Cabestan Winch Tourbillon Vertical is apparently designed from an image of capstan – a large mechanical device drum operated by a lever causing rope or chains to wrap around the drum. First of all this watch looks nothing like I’ve ever seen before, it’s made up of drums and pullies and looks like a strangely appealing, angular homage to some medieval device. The Cabestan Calibre CAB EC 101 movement made by Eric Coudray that powers this contraption is nothing short of breath-taking; all 809 components are assembled and regulated by hand.

The hours, minutes and seconds are displayed on cylindrical drums and sit above the visible fusee vertical tourbillon and allow the chains driving the movement under constant force to be seen clearly. Would I want to own this watch? Probably not. But it’s undoubtedly one of the most technically interesting watches I’ve come across. The case can be found in four different finishes, from brushed titanium, gold and platinum through to the very subtle gold encrusted with diamonds. The Cabestan Winch Tourbillon Vertical, as I’m sure you’ve guessed isn’t cheap retails at a minimum of $275,000 and with only 135 reportedly ever made, it further adds to the cool factor that undeniably surrounds this fine example of imagination and technically brilliance combined.

Inside the Movement 1: Quartz

Inside the Movement 1: Quartz

How does it work?

Quartz movements use a no or very few moving parts; a quartz crystal vibrates within the watch itself due to the piezoelectric effect - this effect uses the electrical charge accumulated by the crystal due to applied mechanical stress. The quartz crystals job is to act as an oscillator and resonates at a high stable frequency, perfect for accurately keeping time.

The movement was created to stop the need to wind the mainspring of a mechanical watch on a regular basis.

 

History

 

Original BETA 1 prototype

The creation of the first quartz wristwatch was initially investigated by Epson (a smaller, Seiko owned company) in 1959. By the 1964 Olympics in Tokyo, a fully working portable prototype had been developed and was used to keep time over the course of the event. 1965 saw the beginning of a new era of developments at the CEH research laboratory in Neuchâtel, Switzerland toward the creation of the quartz wristwatch. A new 8192 Hz quartz oscillator was under development (much smaller than the previously seen version), a thermo-compensation module and an inhouse-made, dedicated assimilated circuit. By 1967 the BETA 1 prototype had been created and broke timekeeping records at the International Chronometric Competition hosted at the Observatory of Neuchâtel. As a result of this, in 1969, the first ever quartz wristwatch to be mass produced (Seiko 35 SQ Astron) entered production and thus the quartz watch was born.

 

Although this was the first quartz movement, it wasn’t the first time the addition of a battery was attempted by a watch manufacturer. The Hamilton Watch Company originally created a watch in 1957 called the Electric 500, a watch that replaced the mainspring of the movement with a battery, eliminating the need for the watch to be wound. Many regard this as the precursor to the quartz watch.

 

Kinetic

Seiko SKA369P1

Quartz watches have been produced that require the movement of the wrist to rotate a weight connected to a generator within the watch that supplies a charge to the rechargeable battery. The basic concept is not too dissimilar to that of an automatic or spring-winding movement, but instead of mechanical spring tension the watch is powered by an electrical current. These watches were called kinetic powered quartz watches. 

Solar

 

Omega Speedmaster Solar Impulse BH-SIA

Solar powered watches such as the Citizen Eco-Drive use photovoltaic/solar cells on the dial of the watch and are powered by converting light into electricity; the watch then uses electricity from the rechargeable battery or capacitor. As a result of the inclusion of solar cells many of the early watches produced during the 1970’s had to alter their designs to accommodate the large cells, however, the huge advancements in technology have enabled manufacturers to incorporate these features whilst maintaining unchanged, traditional designs. Due to the fact the movement is powered by light the battery is never needed to be replaced, the cells only need to exposed to strong light for small periods of time to provide a substantial charge lasting for days or weeks. 

Radio time signal watches

 

G-Shock GWA1000FC-5A

Modern watches with the inclusion of a radio receiver will automatically synchronise with the nearest atomic clock. The movement of the watch remains unaltered; it is only the inclusion of the radio receiver which differs. Once synchronised this makes the watch accurately to the time, date, leap year status of the current year. Some radio time signal watches are able to synchronise to time signals via GPS as well as linking to atomic clocks.

Notable watches

 

Many electric/quartz watches have come out since its invention, with few manufacturers staying away from it; here is a short list of some of my favourite quartz watches produced.

Rolex Oysterquartz Series

Rolex Oysterdate 17000 stainless steel

Introduced in the 1970’s the Oysterquartz was Rolex’s very first in-house quartz movement, (the 5035 and 5055) and the Datejust (5035) and Day-Date (5055). The 11 jewel movement was paired with a 32khz oscillator, new age CMOS circuitry and analog thermo compensation.  Some purists will argue that these weren’t the most accurate quartz watches around at the time; however, it is said that the Oysterquartz was finished to higher standard than the mechanical movements coming out of the factory at the time.

Citizen Eco-Drive Moon Phase AP1011-58A

As well as being a quartz watch the Eco-Drive uses solar cells, capable of being powered by either natural or artificial light. The original Eco-Drive used a caliber 7878 movement - the first light powered movement with the solar cells mounted under the dial by utilising amorphous silicon solar cells. The inclusion of titanium lithium-ion batteries in the 1990’s enable the Eco-Drive’s 7878 movement to run for 180 days without requiring any charge from the sun. Some of the watches in Citizen’s Eco-Drive series offered a hibernation setting in which the hands would stop rotating to save power whilst the quartz movement continued to track the correct time internally. Citizen state that over 80% of their current watch sales include the Eco-Drive movement and that over 320 different models are available.To view the Citizen range, click here.

Tag Heuer 1000 Professional

Over the years the 1000 Professional has built up quite a following due to its distinctive looks, high build quality and rugged resilience against most things thrown its way. This model was made between around 1980 and 1992 and was aimed at being a lower cost diver’s watch with a quartz movement as an option. Before earning its title as a 1000 Professional, Tag Heuer only called the watch by its reference number – ref.844. It contained a French Felsa movement (quartz and automatic options) and were built in France until production was moved back to Switzerland where the movement was swapped in favour of an swiss ETA. The 1000 Professional had a waterproof rating up to 200m, more than enough for the average user who likes a dip in the pool or sea; however, its bigger brother the 1000 Super Professional was able to withstand 1000m. To me it is instantly recognisable, but it is the interesting history behind the watch that makes it a classic to me. More information about the 1000 Professional by clicking here.

Quartz movements may be cheaper to produce but it's clear to me that it doesn't stop a watch from becoming a sort after timepiece, oozing with style and made to be used for generations.

Five Best Vintage Watches for under or around £600/$1000

Five Best Vintage Watches for under or around £600/$1000

If you’re in the market for a great looking vintage watch that doesn’t cost the earth, here are five stand-out watches that you should definitely take a look at.

 

1. Omega Seamaster De Ville

Price: £500/$850 upwards

 

This beautifully understated watch born in 1960 shows what can be achieved through simplicity. Built with a water resistant monocoque case, the watch remains thin and elegant and with off white dial contrasted with a black strap it makes it a perfect gentleman’s dress watch. Removed of any numbering, the dial shows off the simplicity of the De Ville, unconcerned about frivolities. What I love about the De Ville, is that it looks great and undeniably cool, all without looking as if it’s trying – as testament to this, it was worn by Sean Connery in the James Bond movie, “From Russia with Love”. One point of consideration when buying (manually wound at this price point) is to beware of cheaper priced watches often around the £300/$500 mark.

 2. Tissot Seastar Navigator Chronograph Valjoux 7734

Price: £600/$1000 upwards

 

Compared to previous watches mentioned I think this 1970's Chronograph is somewhat of an overlooked classic. The grey case and dial with blue and red features, for me are the highlight of this watch, combined with a brown leather strap creates the perfect period look or by adding a NATO strap creates a casual sports look. Both the dial and hands contain tritium, a continuously glowing gas and even after 40 years the examples I’ve seen still continue to glow brightly. 

3. Seiko ‘Pepsi’ chronograph: Model 6139-6002

Price: £250/$400 upwards

There is something about vintage Seiko chronographs that I really admire and the ‘Pepsi’ chronograph produced between 1969 until around 1979 is possibly my favourite of all. The 6139 was also Seiko’s first automatic chronograph movement, which for me adds a little extra uniqueness to this particular model.  It has a single register chronograph with a 30 minute counter, coloured the same vibrant gold as the dial, as well as this, it has a quickset date-day display. Distinctive and bold, this watch is instantly recognisable and a timeless classic. 

4. Vulcain Triple Date Moon Phase

Price: £650/$1090 upwards

Probably the hardest of all the watches I have mentioned in this list to find, the Triple Date Moon Phase is a seriously cool vintage watch. As a result of being produced in the 1940’s, if you can get your hands on this watch you will be holding a piece of horological history. The case and dial are both a beautiful gold colour that perfectly complements the rose gold numbers and dart indexes, paired with a black leather strap and the Vulcain will really turn heads. However, the subsidiary moon phase dial is what makes this watch; it creates a balance between the dial and day-month indicators that is the epitome of refined elegance, the second hand is also replaced by a half-moon date pointer.

5. Longine Flagship

Price: £600/$1000

Last on my list is another simply styled dress watch, similar to the Omega aesthetically in many ways. Thin and sporting the silver case against a black strap makes this watch a really subtly classic watch, everything a vintage dress watch brings to mind. Roman numeral indexes surround the dial with a tasteful amount of contrast, without any further indications or minute markings. The Flagship is definitely a vintage watch to be celebrated and shown off in a more formal setting when less is more.